Free Walking Tour Lisbon III: Belém and the maritime expeditions

08/30/2018

Walking through Belém is to know a past that does not seem so far away in the monuments that spread along the banks of the Tagus River.

After Chiado and Baixa Pombalina, we're taking ou into a different era, not only of Lisbon and the country's History, but also of Brazil's and all the lands that were a part of the maritime expeditions.

No other neighborhood in Lisbon is as associated with the Discoveries as Belém, after all, it was there that the ships set sail looking to explore other worlds. In his epic poem, "The Lusiads", Luís de Camões makes reference to the events which took place there during the farewells in Belém at the end of Canto IV, even creating the Velho do Restelo (Old Man of Restelo) character, which, to this day is still an expression used to make reference to a person who is still holding on to past traditions and ideals.

Thus were born the roots of Belém. And in fact, the monuments that shape its landscape make justice to its own status, making Belém a world apart from the rest of the city, which lives on the memories of its heroes of the sea.

How to get there?

By tram or bus, as Belém doesn't have an underground. However, there are plenty of trams such as 16E, which departs from Praça da Figueira in Rossio, or buses like the 704 or 728, departing from Praça do Comércio or Cais do Sodré.

Tower of Belém

torre

Arriving to Belém, you will have to cross Avenida de Brasília through the tunnl in front of the garden that faces the Jerónimos Monastery, and then you will have to walk towards the right side, always on the waterfront. This route doesn't seem to make sense, but trust us, in the end it will be worth it!

On the right margin of the Tagus river, where the Belém beach once stood, you will find a tower classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. This monument, with its alternative name of S. Vicente Tower, is one of the best examples of architecture in the kingdom of Manuel I of Portugal, which has also originated the Manueline style - a style of architecture that mixes late gothic with naturalist elements.

Initially, it's been used for artillery, but with the passing of time it has lost its function of defense and dungeons. Today, it's possible to visit it for 4€ or 12€ if the ticket is shared with the Jerónimos Monastery. However, on sunday mornings it's free to visit until 2 PM, so we advise you to arrive early.

As a bonus, you can rest for a while or have a pic-nic on the Belém Tower Gardens, as they face the monument and have been a stage for several performances, including the famous English band The xx.

National Museum of Popular Art

Escher

Afterhaving checked out the Belém Tower and walking past the Bom Sucesso dock, you will be presented with a building right in front of the iconic Espelho d'Água (Water Mirror), which has been build during the Estado Novo, or more specifically, for the Portuguese World Exhibition of 1940.

Here you can find several exhibitions, not all being about its museum's theme. These include exhibitions about technology and games, or the most recent exhibition about the work of the famous dutch artist M.C. Escher, whose optical illusions will be available for the first time ever to the portuguese public until the 16th of September.

Padrão dos Descobrimentos

padrao

Walking further and following the waterfront path after the water mirror, there will be a caravel in concrete and limestone, projected by Cottinelli Telmo in homage to the Infant D. Henrique and the 33 personalities which contributed to the maritime expeditions - among them Dª Filipa de Lencastre, Fernão Mendes Pinto, Gil Eanes, D. Afonso V, e o escritor Luís de Camões.

No other monument is so intrinsically associated with Brazil and its discovery as this one. Originally designed for a Sagres contest, it was only created later for the Portuguese World Exhibition of 1940, using perishable materials. It was so iconic during that occasion that, despite having been taken down in 1958, it was later reconstructed with more lasting materials by Salazar's decision, in celebration of the 500th anniversary of the Infant's death. Its interior has also been remodeled in 1985 to give the space a panoramic view, an auditorium, and an exhibition room.

From its top you can see Belém and the wind rose made in marble mosaic, a gift from the president of the Republic of South Africa to decorate the access path of the Padrão, where ships and caravels mark the main routes of the Portuguese expansion.


MAAT

You will spot the MAAT at a distance, if you walk all the way close to the waterfront until you go past the Belém dock and Central Tejo - also known as the Museu da Electricidade (Museum of Electricity) - of which this museum is an extension.
Its modern and imposing building has been projected by the Amanda Levete Architects studio and its inauguration was in 2016, with the EDP Foundation Art Collection. In its interior you will find exhibitions focused on the themes of art, architecture and technology, which are connected to give way to a space of debate, discovery, critical thinking and international dialogue. From the top of the building you're able to have a panoramic view of several areas of the city, and the entrance is always free to see the view, but if you want to check out the exhibitions inside the price of the ticket is 5€ only for MAAT or 9€for MAAT - the Central, although the first sunday of every month is always free.

ccb

You can keep going straight until the docks or opt for turning back immediately, crossing the same tunnel you've crossed previously. There, on the left side, you will see the CCB, a complex which houses an centre for temporary exhibitions, the Berardo Collection Museum, several auditoriums, concert halls and a meeting centre.

And so our route of the Belém museums continues, now referencing the most famous and which programming is more regular and varied. The modern building has been built by the architects Vittorio Gregotti and Manuel Salgado, in concrete, and finished in 1992. It consists in structural blocks, with patios and squares that connect the three main structures that form the complex - the Conference Centre, the Performative Arts Centre and the Exhibition Centre.

Império Square Garden

Jardim Praça

The Belém Gardens start right in front of CCB, with the Império Square Gardens, and extend into the Museu Nacional dos Coches (National Carriage Museum).

This first one is part of the Praça do Império (Empire Square), the biggest square in the Iberian Peninsula and one of the biggest in Europe, which was also built back in 1940 for the Portuguese World Exhibition , an event that celebrated the 800th anniversary of the Portuguese Independence and the 300th anniversary of the Restoration of Independence.

The garden is of French inspiration and composed of portuguese pavement mosaics, with 32 coats of arms, which designs of plants and flowers represent the former provinces of the empire and four peripheral lakes with two groups of sculptures. In the centre there is a fountain which is lit by night.

Jerónimos Monastery

mosteiro

Going straight from the Império Square Garden, you will se a beautiful building in lioz limestone, which characterises the pinnacle of the Manueline style architecture. The Monastery, also known as Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Belém, is one of the most iconic elements in the city and has been built in the 16th century, by D. Manuel I's initiative.

After several remodels through several centuries, the building nowadays includes the Church of Santa Maria de Belém, the chapel, the cloister, and the Sala do Capítulo, having been joined by the Museu da Marinha (Marine Museum) and the Planetário Calouste Gulbenkian (Calouste Gulbenkian Planetary). In the 80's it was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it's been strictly associated with the Portuguese Royal House and the Discoveries.

The Monastery can be visited on its own for 10€ or shared with the Museu Nacional de Arqueologia (National Museum of Archaelogy), which is housed by the building, or 12€

Garden of Belém

jardins belém

After everything you've walked, you have the opportunity to rest a little in the large space occupied by the Garden of Belém, where you can lie down on the grass, eat some Pastéis de Belém and listen to the birds or read a book.

This garden also hosts a Thai pavilion, which was offered and inaugurated by the princess of the country to celebrate five centuries of diplomatic relations between the ancient kingdom of Siam and Portugal. Built in teak wood lined with gold leaf and bright stained glass, the structure doesn't have a single screw.

Afonso de Albuquerque Square

Jardim Afonso

If you continue to walk until the end of the Jardim de Belém, you will see a smaller one in front of the Palácio de Belém. The square owes its name to Afonso de Albuquerque, 2nd Deputy King and Governor of Portuguese India, whose military, religious and political actions were decisive for the establishment of the Portuguese Empire in the Indian Ocean.
The square offers a beautiful view of the Belém Palace and the Governor's monument, located in the center, was erected in neo-Manueline style. Before being a square, however, the site was once a port built in 1753, from which Queen D. Maria I, Prince João VI and the royal family escaped the Napoleonic invasions to Rio de Janeiro, in Brazil.
palácio belém

Going straight on in Afonso de Albuquerque Square, you will see this pink facade building which is nothing less than the seat of the Presidency of the Portuguese Republic, or Palácio de Belém, as it is also known.

Having previously belonged to kings, the five buildings that are part of the main entrance facing the Tagus are dated from the second half of the seventeenth century, at a time when the monarchy and nobility sought some solace from the growing urban mass of Lisbon. It had several remodelings, one of them after the Earthquake 1755 and it already housed the old Museum of Carriages, before it changed to a modern building on the same street.

Its rooms are made up of well-known divisions, such as the Sala das Bicas, a marble-covered hallway that is often broadcast on television when the President of the Republic makes a statement. It is possible to visit the Palace on Saturday for €5, which includes admission to the adjoining building of the Museum of the Presidency of the Republic - the individual cost of this one is €2.50, but is also free on Sunday until 1pm - which, among various exhibitions, contains dynamic information about the history of the Portuguese Republic. It is also possible to watch the Render da Guarda (Changing of the Guard) on the 3rd Sunday of each month, at 11 o'clock.

jardimtrop

These are some of the most essential and interesting places to see in Belém, however, if you have some free time and want to see more, we recommend you to visit the Planetário Calouste Gulbenkian (5€) where you can see the stars, the Museu da Marinha (€6.50), where you will navigate the maritime history of the Portuguese people, the Jardim Botânico Tropical (€2), where you will be able to see centenary trees and beautiful species, or the Museu dos Coches (€8), which will will make you feel like a true member of royalty.

Where to eat?

Your stomach starts growling and the terraces by the river are many, but be advised that the prices increase by the privileged view! Here are some tips on what to eat in Belém at reasonable prices, including the legendary Pastéis de Belém, which will not fill you with remorse after this many calories lost walking.

Pastéis de Belém

pasteis

The time has come for you to be rewarded for the effort and exercise you have done during a whole day. Relax, sit in the room covered with Portuguese tile, or ask for a box to delight yourself as you watch people pass by in Jardim de Belém. In any case, you'll want to eat a warm Pastel de Belém.

Forget the custard pies at €0.60 in the normal cafés, these are cheap and reasonably good, but there is nothing like the original to make your mouth water. Not to mention that its "secret recipe" came directly from the Portuguese convents, where all types of pastries were made!

At the beginning of the 19th century, a sugar cane refining factory was located there. After the Liberal revolution of 1820, all the convents in Portugal were closed, banning the clergy and workers. As a way to survive, someone from the monastery - whose name is unknown - started selling the famous Pastéis in facilities attached to the refining factory. The rest is history, but the Pastéis de Belém guarantee that the recipe has remained the same until today.

Santini

santini

Considered by many to be the best ice cream in Lisbon, Santini was opened in the late 1940s by the Italian Attilio Santini, in the village of Cascais. It took some time for the famous gelataria to expand to other parts of Lisbon, but it was well worth the wait. The flavors range from classics such as vanilla and pistachio to the more bold like açaí with banana, but we can guarantee you they are always delicious!

Honorato

honorato

Simple, delicious, but at a resonable price. These handmade burgers have everything to suit all tastes, including a vegetarian option and bolo do caco (a type of bread from Madeira) burgers. If you are looking for a slightly healthier alternative to McDonald's, look no further!

And here is our advice on what's essential to see in Belém. After this exhausting day, all you want now is to lie down and sleep, so it's never a bad idea to see the hostels we have for you at Hostelsclub.com. You only have to select the dates below and we'll make the search easier for you!

Plan your stay

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