Art & Food In Astana: Locals Recommend The 7 Best Spots

Get ready to enjoy your stay in Astana!

Astana, the new capital of independent Kazakhstan, just celebrated its 20th birthday. The city is divided into two contrasting parts: the newer, business-focused left bank, which some compare to Dubai, and the juxtaposing calm oasis that is the right bank.

Credits: Pixabay, Boztay_Akimkhan

We recommend that you don't fall into the "left bank trap" and waste your time seeing the modern, imitation grandiose, buildings located here. The left bank is worth visit, but it will take up a few hours of your time to view it and then to form your own opinion of the Capital's modern architecture.

Take a closer look at the buildings: what do these skyscrapers say to you?

Some see the city's architecture as a statement, the evidence of the developments made by an independent Kazakhstan. Why else would Astana boast the biggest tent in the world? The 150 metre high Khan Shatyr Entertainment Center is tent-shaped structure nicknamed the "king among the tents" or the "tent of a khan/king". The centre even has an indoor beach which operates year round!

It's worth noting that many of the modern and comfortable hostels in Astana are located on the left bank. Your first day in the city could be spent exploring the modern part of the city and its famous attractions such as the Bayterek Monument, the Presidential Palace, and Nurzhol Boulevard (we'd recommended to go here in the evening). In this case you can choose to stay in the Hostel Nochleg located nearby.

The good news is that Astana isn't very big and everything is located close together. Better yet, there are almost never any traffic jams. Locals say that the most interesting things happen on the right bank. Go for a walk and if you look carefully, the city can show you a lot of interesting things about its history.

If you want to have the best possible experience in Astana, save this list of locals' favourite cafes and art-spaces.

1. Guess the lucky number on the Khinkalizator at Cafe Tselinnikov and try the Khinkali Challenge for yourself

Go to Cafe Tselinnikov and participate in the Khinkali Challenge, a khinkali dumpling eating contest (a khinkali is a Georgian dumpling). Try this challenge for yourself on any day of the week and become the new champion. Winners get one of the khinkali gift vouchers.

Credits:restolife.kz

Cafe Tselinnikov's name is a reference to Astana's soviet history and its previous name from 1961 to 1992 , Tselinograd. The building where the cafe stands was constructed in 1963 by Latvian architects. Originally the building was a huge concert hall and public space for cultural events that was called the Palace of Tselinnikov . To this day, the cafe's interior resembles the original botanical garden that existed in the concert hall. In the cafe you will also find Soviet movie posters paying homage to the building's previous use as a small cinema. Now the building belongs to the Astana Philharmonia and you can tour it to discover its history and beauty for yourself!

For anyone who is travelling to Astana it is useful to find accomodation in a central position between the left and right banks of the city, such as the modern Hostel Forum. From Hostel Forum you can easily reach every spot in the city by bus. If you love walking you can also reach all of the must-see attractions by foot. Just a 15 minute walk from the hostel there are many bars, restaurants, pharmacies, beauty salons and travel agencies as well as 3 large shopping centers, the city's central park and a circus. If you go a little further, you can see the Opera and Ballet Theater and a Khan Shatyr shopping center.

2. Visit the Art Factory, a gentrified art's center which used to produce ammunition during World War II

Art Factory "Hydra" is a public space for the arts that was opened in Astana this summer in an old factory that produced live ammunition for the Soviet army during World War II. Later, the factory switched its specialization to water pumps, and afterwards it became a factory museum. The building was built in 1941.

Credits: Lena Sorokina

Art Factory is open to any kind of art, especially experimental pieces. They host exhibitions, book clubs and other cultural events. The space is also a reminder of the country's past and introduces visitors to Soviet aesthetics. The rooms and building remain unchanged by the modernising city.

3. Listen to vinyl records in a cozy cafe and add your own records to the collection

In the very center of the old town you will find the small and cozy Drujba.cafe, just a five minute walk from the riverside path. Visit this cafe to listen to the music of your choice on vinyl. The cafe's menu is very simple: there are breakfasts as well as pastas, sandwiches, salads, and cream soups.

Credits:Drujba.astana

Co-founder of the cafe, Astana photographer Arnay Ormash, explained that the Drujba.cafe is a place where guests can escape from their daily routines. Arnay's profile on Instagram is worth subscribing to. He captures the daily life of the city and the details that are hidden even from Astana residents. In his photographs golden domes and luxury skyscrapers contrast with wooden houses and the old market. When he is asked where he finds such contrasts, he replies: "We have a rather strange city." You will understand a lot about Kazakhstan when you will visit the left bank, full of its shiny skyscrapers, and then look at the other part of Astana captured in Arnay's photos.

Credits: @arnay.pbc

On the cafe's exterior you will see a giant graffiti mural. The artists recreated a historical photo from the 70s taken by photographer N. Chernysh for a set of postcards from Tselinograd. Afterwards go to the riverside path, a favourite place of the locals.

Credits:elorda.info

Along the river you will see the new futuristic fish-shaped bridge. It is a gift from Atyrau Region of Kazakhstan for the 20th anniversary of Astana. The region is located near the Caspian Sea in the West of Kazakhstan and is considered to be the oil capital of the country. Walk along this bridge and you will see the Central Park.

4. Have a drink in the bar that does not exist

"No dress code, only the passcode is required", they will tell you at the entrance of this bar. To go to 404BARNOTFOUND on Friday and Saturday after 18:00 you need to get a special code (check the bar's Instagram). The bar is located in the basement of the PunktP cafe. The project is run by the founders of Cafe Tselinnikov. Exchange your cash for the bar's special RESTOCOIN tokens to pay for your drinks (1 RESTOCOIN = 1 000 tenge). Afterwards, play beerpong and use the slot machines. If you are hungry, take a refreshment in the cafe, and then go downstairs into the bar. The interior design of PunkP and 404BARNOTFOUND is worth mentioning: its full of neon signs, slot machines, pop-art and anime. Watch this video and see for yourself!

Credits:PunktPAstana

Head Chef Eka Nadiradze has entrusted the management of the cafe and bar to young people because Eka says that PunktP is a young project for the young people of Astana.

5. See the TAMYZzz exhibition at the TSE Art Destination

The name of this gallery, which is located in the city's old center in a square with fountains, again reminds us of the history of the city. TSE is the airport code of Astana, which has existed since the city was known as Tselinograd. In August the gallery opened an exhibition for a group of contemporary Kazakh artists called TAMYZ (Which translates to "August" from Kazakh). Check out the video from the exhibition opening here (it's worth a watch!).

Credits:@tse.art.destination

The artists on display at the exhibition can tell you a lot about modern Kazakhstan, whose citizens are passing through a period of rethinking their national identity as well as their Soviet past, independent present and their plans for the future. The works of these artists are full of symbols relating to these new thoughts. You will need some time to understand the emotions that arise within you when you see these paintings.

Credits:@tse.art.destination

6. Go to see this beautifully painted house

At number 5 Mambetova Street you will find a house that is decorated with paintings by Kazakhstan artists from the collection of the A.Kasteyev State Museum of Arts. In fact, the facade of the house acts as a sort of street gallery or an open-air museum.

Credits: Arman Turlybek

7. URBAN ART ASTANA

This year in Astana's Saryrka district eight new graffiti murals were created as a part of the Urban Art Astana street art festival. Kazakh and foreign artists participated in the festival and were inspired by the local history, interpreting it into a modern style. The leopard in the mural shown in the picture below was described on the Festival's Facebook page as: "a symbol of dignity, power and freedom".

Credits:Urban Art Astana

Before the trip please check the weather in Astana, because in winter the temperature here drops to -30 degrees Celsius, and in summer it rises to +30. Choose one of our budget hostels in Astana and pack your bags!

Cover photo by PunktPAstana