Solo Female Traveler in Sofia - where I've been
There was a time in my life when I was a student of Western and Southern Slavic Studies. Lots of cultures and languages in one pot. I majored in Czech but in the course of events I was also forced to learn the history of Bulgaria, Serbia, Croatia, Slovenia, you name it. I probably read way more Bulgarian literature than an average person in Poland did (okay, I'm afraid an average person in Poland haven't even heard of any bright stars in the history of Bulgarian literature). I remember how I was cursing while learning about Bulgarian politicians of interbellum period. Out loud, I have to add. I remember the day I was reading one of Yordan Radichkov's novels lying on the grass in the public garden. I loved the book. As I said, I majored in Czech but 5 university years got me curious about all the Slavic countries. The further, the better so Bulgaria was pretty appealing, always. But somehow I never gotten to go. I traveled to Serbia but never made it to Bulgaria. While planning my spring break, I decided to change it. What's easier than hopping on the night bus in Istanbul and waking up in Sofia 9 hours later?
So here I was with no expectations and growing curiosity. No expectations, or no, wait, actually I had some. Very low. A number of people told me Sofia is a grey, not really interesting place with too many signs of the past Soviet influence. I tried not to pay attention to all these spoiler alerts. I never do. The place means something else to every single traveler. The only opinion that matters is my own. Now when I have it, I can share it with you. Just to got you curious enough to pay Sofia a visit and leave with your own.
Sofia is a good sized city for a nice weekend away. I came a bit tired as I only slept in the bus but I immediately got off to explore as the spring weather looked so appealing. So I went out and wandered a bit around Vitosha Boulevard.
I got a nice pastry and a nice coffee for breakfast and I realised that I understand more of Bulgarian than I'd ever expected. I also realised that Sofia is pretty. It isn't grey or Soviet (well, it has its Soviet style spots remaining from the dark times of socialism but, um, the whole Eastern Europe has them, Prague does too and no one seems to notice it. They are evident everywhere from Berlin to Vladivostok and from Norilsk to Baku. They aren't everything though).
Sofia is classy with all its temples and monumental governmental and institutional buildings. Clean and severe kind of classy.
It's nice for a little while but I got bored of it pretty fast. Fortunately, the classy city has its different face too. The cool one. Sofia is home to cool bars, cool shops, underground galleries and, last but not least, cool street art.
To discover a bit of this, you should explore Ivan Shishman street and its surroundings. What's even more interesting is the diversity of styles Sofia inherited from its colorful past and different regimes and dominations that ruled and created the city over centuries. Sofia is home to Orthodox churches, Catholic churches, mosques, Armenian churches and the biggest Sephardic synagogue in Southeastern Europe.
This is a lot to explore, see and photograph, right? The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, St. Nedelia Church, Banya Banshi Mosque and the Synagogue really deserve a visit.
Someone told me it's grey. That someone was wrong. I assume it has to be the greenest capital I've ever been to. I just arrived too early, before everything started to bloom. Thank you, Sofia, for your public gardens full of playing kids, street musicians, little markets and weird monuments. I must admit the place is extremely walkable and easy to navigate (spoiler alert: I'm the most directionally challenged traveler that ever existed, I swear). So, go for a walk and breathe Sofia's unspoiled air.
I walked my legs off but I took more breaks than I usually do while on a city tour. Because the food. Because the yoghurt. Because banitsa. Because one more shopska salad has never killed anybody. And, tell me, what's better than Bulgarian stuffed pepper. Hardly anything in the world. So, listen to me now. If you ever go to Bulgarian eat as much as you can. Eat street food, especially the pastries. Try local wine and the yoghurt drink. It's so yummy. And such a good value for money, too. If you have time, I'd suggest you exploring the Lady's Market and tasting all the delicious goods there!
Last but not least, thanks to Sofia's location and the smooth and reliable intercity buses, the capital is a perfect base for daytrips. I went to Plovidv (I loved it and I totally recommend you to go, it's just 2 hours away and so so worth it) and to Rila Mountains (absolutely stunning, I hiked in the snow in sneakers and jeans and I regret nothing). I was pretty teased to go to Vitosha, the national park just right next to the city but I had no time left for it. Next time, right. I loved how the hill overlooks at the city.
Sofia is underrated. Bulgarian seaside makes it to more and more bucket lists. At least in my circles. Almost no one goes to the capital though. You should change it. Give Sofia a chance.
Zofia Bałdyga, blogger at The Picktures